The “Buddhist Temples” section of the Tokyo Shitamachi Guide introduces various shrines in Tokyo’s Shitamachi area, located along and east of the Sumida River. Each article highlights a must-visit temple to enhance your Tokyo sightseeing experience.
This article features Jokanji Temple, a Buddhist temple located in the Minowa area of Arakawa City.
Jokanji Temple has a deep connection to Yoshiwara Yukaku, once the largest legal red-light district in the area, which operated for nearly 380 years.
Known as the “Throw-Away Temple,” Jokanji gained this nickname because when courtesans in Yoshiwara Yukaku passed away, their bodies were sent here without ceremony. Over 25,000 courtesans are said to rest at this temple.
In this article, we’ll cover:
- History
- Deities enshrined
- Highlights
- Access
- And more!
By the end, you’ll have a deeper understanding of Jokanji Temple. Be sure to refer to it when planning your visit!
History
The Temple’s Beginnings
Jokanji Temple dates back to the 17th century, though the exact year of its founding is unclear. It was established by a Buddhist monk named Junha, either in 1629 or 1655. Why Junha chose this location is unknown, but the temple’s history is closely tied to Yoshiwara Yukaku, a famous red-light district.
The Birth and Relocation of Yoshiwara Yukaku
Yoshiwara Yukaku, Japan’s largest legal red-light district, was originally established in Nihonbashi in 1617 with permission from the Tokugawa Shogunate. The district was walled off and surrounded by moats to concentrate brothels in one place, both to maintain public order and make tax collection easier.
In 1657, after the Great Fire of Meireki destroyed much of Edo (now Tokyo), Yoshiwara Yukaku was moved to Nihonzutsumi, near Asakusa. This new location was called Shin-Yoshiwara (“New Yoshiwara”) to distinguish it from Moto-Yoshiwara (“Old Yoshiwara”) in Nihonbashi. Jokanji Temple was about a 10-minute walk from the new district.
Becoming the “Throw-Away Temple”
In 1855, the Edo Earthquake caused widespread fires, devastating Shin-Yoshiwara. More than 500 women who worked there died and were buried at Jokanji Temple without dignity or ceremony. Over time, the temple became a resting place for over 25,000 courtesans, earning it the nickname “Throw-Away Temple.”
Other temples in the area, such as Shookuin and Daionji, also buried women from Shin-Yoshiwara, but Jokanji remains the most well-known.
Deities Enshrined
Amida Nyorai
The main deity of Jokanji Temple is Amida Nyorai. This Buddhist deity is believed to bring peace in life and happiness after death. The main blessings associated with this Buddha include:
- Rebirth in the Pure Land (Gokuraku Ojo)
- Peace in the Present Life (Gense Annon)
- And more
Highlights
Shin-Yoshiwara Memorial Tower
This tower was built to honor the women of Shin-Yoshiwara. Originally a memorial mound in 1753, it was rebuilt in 1929. While it initially commemorated those who died in the 1855 earthquake, it now honors over 25,000 people connected to Shin-Yoshiwara, including victims of the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake.
Hanamata Kasui’s Senryu Poem
A senryu (short Japanese poem) by poet Hanamata Kasui is inscribed on the tower. It reads, “Born in hell, buried in Jokanji Temple,” capturing the hardships faced by the women of Shin-Yoshiwara.
Wakamurasaki’s Grave
Wakamurasaki, a famous courtesan, is buried at Jokanji. She was a highly educated and popular woman who worked at a prestigious brothel. Tragically, she was murdered at age 22, just days before leaving the brothel to marry her lover. Her grave was built out of sympathy for her untimely death.
Sunflower Jizo
This statue, holding a sunflower, was erected to pray for poor laborers from the nearby San’ya district. Many day laborers lived difficult lives and died alone. The sunflower symbolizes their hard work under the sun.
Nagai Kafu’s Brush Mound
A memorial for Nagai Kafu, a writer who often visited Jokanji, stands next to the Sunflower Jizo. Built in 1963, the mound contains his pen and two of his teeth. Kafu frequently wrote about Shin-Yoshiwara and wanted to be buried here, though that wish wasn’t fulfilled.
Every April 30, a memorial service is held at Jokanji to honor him, including a lecture about his work.
Additional information
Opening Hours
The temple office hours are as follows:
- Summer Hours (March to November): 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM
- Winter Hours (December to February): 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM
TEL
- 03-3801-6870
Address
- Minami-Senju 2-1-12, Arakawa-Ku, Tokyo 116-0003
