The Tokyo Shitamachi Guide’s “Shrines” category, introduces noteworthy religious sites in Tokyo’s Shitamachi area (east of the Sumida River). Today, we’ll explore Chokokuji Temple, a Honmon school of Hokke sect Buddhist temple in Taito Ward.
Chokokuji Temple is home to the Jikkai Mandala (Mandala of the Ten Realms) and the deity Washi Myoken Daibosatsu, also known as Washi Daimyojin (Great Deity of the Eagle) or Otori-Sama (Lord Eagle).
Interestingly, nearby Otori Shrine and Chokokuji Temple were once a single religious entity. They separated when the Meiji government implemented the Shinbutsu Bunri Policy, which mandated the separation of Shintoism and Buddhism.
Despite their separation, Chokokuji Temple and Otori Shrine collaborate to host the Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair each November. This is Japan’s largest Tori-no-Ichi Fair and a cherished year-end tradition in Asakusa.
This guide provides useful information for visiting Chokokuji Temple, covering its history, highlights, and how to get there. It’s a great resource for sightseeing in Tokyo’s Shitamachi area, especially Asakusa.
History
Chokokuji Temple’s history, dating back to the 17th century, is closely linked to the nearby Otori Shrine.
Around 1600, a monk named Nichiken resided at Chokokuzan Jusenji Temple, one of the four head temples of the Honmon school of the Hokke sect (currently in Mobara Washinosu, Chiba Prefecture). Nichiken, the 13th chief priest, is sometimes believed to have been the son of Ishida Mitsunari, a feudal lord from the late 16th century.
In 1630, Nichiken founded Chokokuji Temple in Asakusa Torikoecho (later renamed Asakusa Moto-Torikoecho, now around 2-Chome, Torigoe, Taito Ward). The temple moved to its current location in Senzoku in 1699, with assistance from a person named Sakamoto Den’emon (about whom little is known).
In 1771, Nichigen, the 13th chief priest of Chokokuji Temple, performed a Kanjo ritual to invite Washi Myoken Daibosatsu from Jusenji Temple. Washi Myoken Daibosatsu, a Buddhist deity depicted holding a sword and riding an eagle, is a form of Myoken Bosatsu (the deification of the North Star and Big Dipper). Kanjo, a term originally from Shinto, has several meanings; here, it refers to enshrining a divided spirit of the deity in a new location. This divided spirit is believed to be just as powerful as the original. Washi Myoken Daibosatsu is also known as O-Tori-Sama (Lord Eagle) or Washi Daimyojin (Great Deity of the Eagle).
At that time, Chokokuji Temple enshrined Washi Myoken Daibosatsu in its Banjin-Do Hall, which also became known as Washi Daimyojin no Yashiro or Washi no Miya (both yashiro and miya indicate Shinto shrines). This suggests that Banjin-Do Hall may have been a Shinto shrine managed by Chokokuji Temple.
In 1868, the Meiji government issued the Shinbutsu Bunri Policy, separating Shintoism and Buddhism. As a result, Chokokuji Temple (a Buddhist temple) could no longer manage Banjin-Do Hall (a Shinto shrine). Banjin-Do Hall became independent in 1868, becoming Otori Shrine.
Chokokuji Temple continues to enshrine Washi Myoken Daibosatsu as its principal image. Otori Shrine, on the other hand, enshrines Ame no Hiwashi no Kami, a Shinto deity also known as O-Tori-Sama.
For more information about Otori Shrine, please see this blog post:
Enshrined Deities and Their Blessings
Jikkai Mandala (The Mandala of the Ten Realms)
Chokokuji Temple’s main image is the Jikkai Mandala (Mandala of the Ten Realms). This mandala is typically the central image for both the Hokke and Nichiren sects of Buddhism, both founded on the teachings of the 13th-century monk Nichiren.
At the heart of the Jikkai Mandala is the phrase “Namu Myoho Renge Kyo,” meaning “I will believe in and devote myself to the Horenge Kyo (the Lotus Sutra).” The surrounding area depicts various Buddhist deities and the Jikkai (Ten Realms).
The Jikkai represents ten states of mind within the Buddhist world:
- Buddhahood (Enlightenment)
- Bodhisattva (Enlightened beings striving for Buddhahood)
- Pratyekabuddha (Self-enlightened beings)
- Śrāvaka (Disciples of Buddha)
- Heaven (Realm of pleasure)
- Humans (Realm of balance)
- Asuras (Realm of conflict)
- Beasts (Realm of instinct)
- Hungry Ghosts (Realm of craving)
- Hell (Realm of suffering)
Washi Myoken Daibosatsu
Chokokuji Temple also venerates Washi Myoken Daibosatsu as a principal deity.
Washi Myoken Daibosatsu, a form of Myoken Bosatsu, is depicted holding a secret sword and riding an eagle. This deity is also known as Washi Daimyojin (Great Deity of the Eagle) or O-Tori-Sama (Lord Eagle).
Myoken Bosatsu represents the deification of the North Star and the Big Dipper. Ancient people considered the North Star the center of the universe, superior to all other stars.
Chokokuji Temple’s Washi Myoken Daibosatsu wears Hagunsei (the star of defeating enemies) on its head. Hagunsei is the Chinese name for the star at the tail of the Big Dipper. Historically, Hagunsei was associated with warfare, seen as the tip of a sword, and its direction was considered unlucky. However, attacking in that direction was believed to bring victory.
Therefore, Washi Myoken Daibosatsu is believed to guide people in the right direction. At Chokokuji Temple, this deity is revered as the guardian of good luck and happiness.
Highlights
Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair
The Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair (Asakusa Rooster Day Market) is an annual festival co-hosted by Chokokuji Temple and Otori Shrine. This popular event has been a year-end tradition in Asakusa since the 17th century.
The fair serves two main purposes:
To express gratitude for a safe and prosperous year.
To pray for happiness and business success in the coming year.
The Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair takes place on Rooster Days in November. This timing is connected to a story about Nichiren, the founder of the Hokke sect of Buddhism. Chokokuji Temple recounts that Washi Myoken Daibosatsu appeared before Nichiren while he was praying for national peace at Jusenji Temple on a Rooster Day in November.
While other shrines and temples hold Tori-no-Ichi fairs, Asakusa’s is the largest, attracting 700,000 to 800,000 visitors annually (according to Wikipedia).
Two key factors contributed to the Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair’s popularity:
Proximity to Asakusa and Sensoji Temple: Chokokuji Temple is a short 10-minute walk from these major entertainment and pilgrimage destinations. This convenient location drew large crowds to the fair.
Nearby Yoshiwara Yukaku: The Yoshiwara Yukaku, Japan’s largest legal red-light district, was located near Chokokuji Temple. This district was completely walled off, with the Ohaguro-Dobu Moat and walls preventing the women inside from escaping. Access was normally limited to the Yoshiwara Omon (main gate). However, during the Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair, Yoshiwara Yukaku would open drawbridges over the moat, allowing direct access from Chokokuji Temple. This encouraged many fair-goers to visit the Yukaku on their way home.
For more information about Yoshiwara Yukaku, see this blog post: (link to blog post)
Asakusa Hydrangea Fair
Chokokuji Temple also holds the Asakusa Ajisai Matsuri Fair (Asakusa Hydrangea Fair), also known as the Summer Tori-no-Ichi Fair, every June.
According to the Oku-Asakusa Tourism Association, the Asakusa Ajisai Matsuri began in the late Edo period (around the 17th century). During a summer epidemic in Edo (present-day Tokyo), the Edo Shogunate requested prayers from Chokokuji Temple. After the epidemic subsided, the temple began holding a summer market, which became the Asakusa Ajisai Matsuri Fair.
At the fair, visitors can enjoy a wide variety of hydrangeas. In 2021, the fair boasted 100 varieties from all over Japan (according to the official website).
A unique feature of the fair is the Kago-Ajisai, a potted hydrangea presented in a bamboo fishing basket, available for purchase only at this event.
drangea Fair at Chokokuji Temple (Taito, Tokyo)
Other Useful Information
Opening Hours
- From 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
TEL
- 03-3872-1667
Address
- Senzoku 3-19-6, Taito-ku, Tokyo 111-0031
Google Map
Public Transport (Train)
- A 8-minute walk from Iriya Station (Exit #3) on the Hibiya Line
- A 7-minute walk from Minowa Stattion (Exit 1b) on the Hibiya Line
- A 11-minute walk from Asakusa Station (Exit A1) on the Tsukuba Express Line
Public Transport (Megurin Bus)
- A 2-minute walk from Ichiyo-Kinenkan-Iriguchi Stop (Stop #15) on Megurin North Route (Asakusa)
- A 5-minute walk from Taito Byoin Stop (Stop #17) on Megurin North Route (Asakusa)
- A 2-minute walk from Ichiyo-Kinenkan-Iriguchi Stop (Stop #6) on Megurin North Route (Negishi)
- A 5-minute walk from Taito Byoin Stop (Stop #1) on Megurin North Route (Negishi)
- A 5-minute walk from Taito Byoin Stop (Stop #28) on Megurin South Route
Megurin Bus is a community bus service operated by Taito Ward. This bus service is very convenient for sightseeing in Taito Ward. For more information on Megurin Bus, please refer to the blog post below:
Public Transport (Toei Bus)
- A 3-minute walk from Ryusen Stop on Toei Bus Route 都 08 (To 08)
- A 4-minute walk from Senzoku Stop on Toei Bus Route 都 08 (To 08)
- A 3-minute walk from Ryusen Stop on Toei Bus Route 草 43 (Kusa 43)
- A 4-minute walk from Senzoku Stop on Toei Bus Route 草 43 (Kusa 43)
- A 3-minute walk from Ryusen Stop on Toei Bus Route 草 63 (Kusa 63)
- A 4-minute walk from Senzoku Stop on Toei Bus Route 草 63 (Kusa 63)
Public Restroom Availability
- Unconfirmed
