Tokyo Shitamachi Tour: Ichiyo Higuchi

Otori Shrine (Taito, Tokyo) Tokyo Shitamachi Tours
Otori Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

Our “Tokyo Shitamachi Tour” category recommends where to visit for sightseeing in Tokyo’s Shitamachi area (the area along and east of the Sumida River). We select a different theme each time and propose a model course of casual self-guided tours.

If you plan to visit Tokyo, the Tokyo Shitamachi Tour is exactly for you. It will help you to find where to go in the Shitamachi area of Tokyo.

This time, we chose Otori Shrine and Mishima Shrine. Ichiyo Higuchi, a female writer in the late 19th century, featured these two Shinto shrines in her major work, “Takekurabe.”

Otori Shrine is a Shinto shrine located in Senzoku, Taito Ward. This shrine and Chokokuji Temple, a neighborhood Buddhist temple, hold Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair (the Rooster-Day Market of Asakusa) every November. This is the biggest Tori-no-Ichi Fair in Japan.

Mishima Shrine is a Shinto shrine located in Shitaya, Taito Ward. This shrine is famous for its divine virtue of “never falling.” Also, there is a well called Kaminari Ido (the well of the thunder god) in the precincts. This well, as its name suggests, once sealed the thunder god. 

This blog post will cover the highlights of Otori Shrine and Mishima Shrine. For your self-guided tour, you can visit both of them or pick one. It’s all up to you!

We hope this blog post will help you somewhat when you visit Tokyo for sightseeing. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us through the contact form.

This blog post is also available in Japanese. You can refer to it at the following link:

Tour Overview

This self-guided tour features Otori Shrine and Mishima Shrine in Taito Ward of Tokyo. Ichiyo Higuchi, a female writer in the later 19th century, featured these two Shinto shrines in her major work, “Takekurabe.”

Because Ichiyo Higuchi lived in the neighborhood of Otori Shrine, there are many places related to her around this Shinto shrine. Therefore, this tour is like a simplified version of the tour of “visiting historical sites related to Ichiyo Higuchi.”

Recommended For

This self-guided tour is ideal if you are any of the following:

  • I want to visit sites other than Sensoji Temple in the Asakusa area;
  • I am interested in the Seven Lucky Gods of Asakusa;
  • I love Ichiyo Higuchi’s works;
  • I want to take pictures of Hanachozu;
  • etc.

Duration

  • Duration: Appoximately 40 minutes

Departure & Return

  • Departure point: The A1 Exit of Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line
  • Return point: #4 Exit of Iriya Station on the Hibiya Line

Itinerary

  1. Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line (Exit A1)
  2. Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street
  3. Otori Shrine
  4. Chokokuji Temple
  5. Ryosen Intersection
  6. Showa-Dori Avenue
  7. Mishima Shrine
  8. Iriya Station on the Hibiya Line (#4 Exit)

Restrooms

  • Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line
  • Iriya Station on the Hibiya Line
  • Otori Shrine
  • Kanasugi Park near Mishima Shrine
  • etc.

Tour Details

Basic Knowledge

About Otori Shrine

Otori Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

Otori Shrine is a shrine located in Senzoku, Taito Ward.

Otori Shrine enshrines Ame-no-Hiwashi-no-Kami, the Shinto god of spinning and weaving. The divine virtues of this god are the protection of the textile industry, prosperous business, etc.

Otori Shrine and Chokokuji Temple, a neighborhood Buddhist temple, hold Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair (the Rooster-Day Market of Asakusa) every November. This is the biggest Tori-no-Ichi in Japan.

For more information about Otori Shrine, please refer to the following blog post:

About Mishima Shrine

Mishima Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

Mishima Shrine is a Shinto shrine located in Shitaya, Taito Ward.

Mishima Shrine enshrines Oyamatsumi-no-Kami, the Shinto god of mountains and seas. The divine virtues of this god are forestry protection, prosperous business, good health, etc.

This Shinto shrine has folklore about the thunder god. A long time ago, the thunder god kept annoying this neighborhood with lightning. When he mistakenly fell into the ground, the priest of Mishima Shrine sealed the god in a well. The thunder god promised the priest not to fall into this neighborhood again.

After that, “the thunder god won’t fall” changed to “luck won’t fall,” “sales won’t fall,” and “academic performance won’t fall.” This is why people call this Shinto shrine a never-falling shrine.

Route Details

Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line (Exit A1)

Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line (Taito, Tokyo)

The departure point for this time is Exit A1 of Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line. You will get to this exit if you turn left at the ticket gate of this station.

Turn left after exiting the A1 Exit of Asakusa Station. You will find Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street in front of you; turn right here.

Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street

Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street (Taito, Tokyo)

Let’s walk north on Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street. Our first stop, Otori Shrine, is located along this street. It should be about an 8-minute walk from Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line.

Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line (Exit A)
Exist A of Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line (Taito, Tokyo)

A 3-minute walk along Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street will take you to Exit A of Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line (not Exit A1). To take this exit, turn right at the ticket gate at Asakusa Station.

There are no elevators or escalators at Exit A of Asakusa Station. So we don’t recommend this exit. If you are with a senior person or a child, try Exit A1 instead of Exit A. You can use the elevator or escalator at Exit A1.

Otori Shrine

Otori Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

After walking 8 minutes along Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street from Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express Line, you will find Otori Shrine on your right.

Otori Shrine appears in chapters 1 and 14 of Ichiyo Higuchi’s Takekurabe. Both chapters deal with Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi.

The Stone Monuments to Ichiyo Higuchi

You will find two stone monuments related to Ichiyo Higuchi on the right side of the precincts: The literature monument and the epistle monument.

The literature monument has Chapter 14 of Takekurabe engraved. And the epistle monument has Higuchi Ichiyo’s epistle engraved. She sent this epistle to her master, Tosui Nakarai who was a writer.

Okumade (The Gigantic Rake)
The Gigantic Rake of Otori Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

Okumade (a large rake) welcomes you at the entrance of Otori Shrine. Decorated rakes are metaphors for the wish to collect good luck and financial fortune.

Otori Shrine holds Asakusa Tori-no-Ichi Fair on the days of the rooster in November every year. This large rake will then be replaced with a new one.

Nade-Okame
Nade-Okame at Otori Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

You will find a big face called Nade-Okame in the worship hall of Otori Shrine. Nade means “to rub,” and Okame, aka Otafuku, is a metaphor for Lady Luck in Japan.

According to Otori Shrine, rubbing Nade-Okame will bring you her divine virtue. What you can expect varies depending on where you rub her face.

  • Rub her forehead if you want to be more intelligent.
  • Rub her eyes if you want to be a clear-sighted person.
  • Rub her nose if you want financial fortune.
  • Rub her right cheek if you want to succeed in love.
  • Rub her left cheek If you want good health.
  • Rub her mouth if you want to avoid disasters.
  • Rub her chin clockwise if you want to settle things peacefully.
Note
Otori Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

The shrine office offers a water dispenser. There are also benches in front of the shrine office for resting. This kind of consideration is very appreciated, especially when we visit the shrine on a hot day.

Chokokuji Temple

Chokokuji Temple (Taito, Tokyo)

After leaving Otori Shrine from the main Torii Gate, turn right. If you walk north on Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street for a minute, you will get to Chokokuji Temple.

Reference: The National Diet Library – Edo Kiriezu (Imado Minowa Asakusa Ezu)

Otori Shrine was a part of Chokokuji Temple during the Edo Period. The reason why Otori Shrine got independent from Chokokuji is the Meiji government’s Shinbutsu Bunri policy, which separated Shinto from Buddhism and was issued in 1868. The government wanted to make Shinto superior to Buddhism.

Look at the map issued in the 19th century above. You can recognize that Chokokuji Temple and Otori Shrine share the same precincts on the map.

Ryusen Intersection

Ryusenn Intersection (Taito, Tokyo)

After passing Chokokuji Temple, continue north on Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street. You will arrive at Ryusen Intersection. The landmarks at this intersection are Ryusen Pharmacy and the information board for Ichiyo Memorial Museum.

Cross Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street at the Ryusen Intersection. You should turn left in the photo above.

The Monument of Ichiyo Higuchi’s Former Residence

Ichiyo Higuchi used to live in Ryusen, which is the neighborhood surrounding the Ryusen Intersection. If you turn right at the intersection, you can find the monument to Ichiyo Higuchi’s former residence.

Nozomi Pharmacy
Ryusen Intersection (Taito, Tokyo)

Nozomi Pharmacy is across Asakusa-Kokusai-Dori Street at Ryusen Intersection. This time, we will go through the street next to Nozomi Pharmacy.

Shitaya 3-Chomen Intersection on Showa-Dori Boulevard

Shitaya 3-Chome Pedestrian Bridge (Taito, Tokyo)

After walking about 5 minutes from Nozomi Pharmacy, you will arrive at Shitaya 3-Chome Intersection on Showa-Dori Boulevard. Mishima Shrine is located on the other side of the boulevard. To cross Showa-Dori Boulevard, you can use a pedestrian bridge or crosswalk.

Shitaya (Taito, Tokyo)

After crossing Shitaya 3-Chome Intersection, go down the street on the left side of Wind House, the vacation rental. If you walk along the road for about 3 minutes, you will arrive at Mishima Shrine.

Mishima Shrine

Mishima Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

Mishima Shrine is a 3-minute walk from Shitaya 3-Chome Intersection.

Mishima Shrine appears in Chapter 1 of Ichiyo Higuchi’s Takekurabe as follows:

三嶋神社(みしまさま)の角をまがりてより是れぞと見ゆる大厦(いへ)もなく

(After turning the corner at Mishima Shrine, there is no house worth seeing.)

Source: Ichiyo Higuchi “Takekurabe” (Aozora Bunko)

If you look at a map from the 19th century, you’ll see that the area around Mishima Shrine is green, representing the forests and embankments.

Reference: The National Diet Library – Edo Kiriezu (Negishi Yanaka Atari No Ezu)
The Thunder Well
The Thunder Well at Mishima Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

After passing through the torii gate of Mishima Shrine, you will find the Thunder Well on your left. In the old days, when the thunder god fell into this area, the priest of Mishima Shrine punished him by trapping him in this well.

Hanachozu
Hanachozu at Mishima Shrine (Taito, Tokyo)

There is a Chozuya next to the Thunder Well. A Chozuya is a facility where you cleanse your hands and mouth before praying to deities. Most Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples have one.

At Mishima Shrine, you can enjoy Hanachozu, which decorates the Chozuya with seasonal flowers. When we visited this time, the dragon, the god of water, was decorated with white flowers.

You can also enjoy Hanachozu at Shitaya Shrine and Moto-Mishima Shrine in Taito Ward. For more information about these Shinto shrines, please refer to the following blog posts:

404 NOT FOUND | The Tokyo Shitamachi Guide
Let's walk around with us

Iriya Station on the Hibiya Line (Exit #4)

After visiting Mishima Shrine, return to the Iriya 3-Chome Intersection. Walk south on Showa-Dori for about 4 minutes. Then you will arrive at Iriya Station (Exit #4) on the Hibiya Line.

Our Tokyo Shitamachi Tour ends here this time. Good job!

If your time allows, you may also want to visit the Ueno area, especially Ameyoko, the market street along the Yamanote Line. Ueno Station on the Hibiya Line is the next stop from Iriya Station.

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